AMA Vertical Tasting
Château Rauzan-Ségla
Have you ever found that the more you love something, the higher your expectations become? Sometimes, when that love reaches an extreme, it can even turn into a kind of obsession, bordering on the overly critical. Perhaps that’s precisely why I have been so demanding of Château Rauzan-Ségla—because I love it that much. But how did this wine win me over in the first place? Today, let me take you through my journey of discovering Château Rauzan-Ségla.
It all started many years ago on my birthday. A friend of mine, an expert in hunting down old vintages, handed me a bottle of Rauzan-Ségla with an air of mystery. The label was so worn it looked like a cat had clawed at it, and the vintage was barely legible. I couldn’t help but wonder: *Did you ‘rescue’ this one from some old gentleman’s private cellar again?* Though I had my doubts, I accepted this rather intriguing gift.
Fast forward to the following year’s Valentine’s Day. I had just gotten home when it hit me—I had completely forgotten to prepare a gift for Phydiasse.
Disaster!
What now? …
The usual trick—wine to the rescue!
But this was Valentine’s Day. It couldn’t be just any bottle; it needed to have an element of surprise, something to make her heart race. How could I create that? Then it struck me—let her guess! But guess what? Well, what could be more fitting than this mystery-vintage Château Rauzan-Ségla? (Don’t laugh—this is classic “logical thinking” from a straight-talking guy. And, judging by the outcome, it worked like a charm!)
What started as a little surprise turned into an unforgettable revelation. The wine unfolded with layers of aromas—earthy mushrooms, pine resin, and dried roses. On the palate, the interplay of blood orange, hawthorn, and resin created a cool, intricate harmony, as if each sip was whispering a forgotten tale of time. With every swirl of the glass, it felt like time itself was spinning within. At that moment, I was completely and utterly captivated by Château Rauzan-Ségla.
Turning over the cork, I finally deciphered the vintage—1983. The wine, stained by the patina of years gone by, revealed its true identity. That tasting not only cemented my admiration for Château Rauzan-Ségla but also led me to a surprising realization: 1983 in Margaux was far superior to the much-lauded 1982.
From a wine critic’s perspective, Château Rauzan-Ségla’s style truly aligns with my impression of the estate starting from the 2015 vintage. Before that, it was like an occasional spark—flaring up here and there. But from 2015 onwards, it felt as if it had switched into overdrive, surging ahead with unstoppable momentum. In my view, post-2015 Rauzan-Ségla has become the pinnacle of Margaux’s vibrant and delicate expression—a texture so soft and seamless, it melts on the palate, much like the effortless sophistication exuded by Parisian women. Elegant yet unforced, natural but never overpowering, it carries no unnecessary embellishments and cares little for external judgment. And yet, it possesses an undeniable allure, drawing you in with a quiet confidence, as if each drop of wine were whispering its own unique story.
This brings me to the vertical tasting. 2024 marks the 30th anniversary of Chanel’s acquisition of Château Rauzan-Ségla. However, as General Manager Nicolas revealed to me, they are planning a grand event in 2026—“D’une Rive à L’autre” —to celebrate both their Left and Right Bank estates, coinciding with the anniversary of Chanel’s 1996 purchase of Château Canon. Because of this, the château had not scheduled any vertical tastings for now—yet somehow, I became the first wine critic in the world to conduct a Château Rauzan-Ségla 30th Anniversary Tasting. (A special shout-out to my dear friend Michelle Liu for making this happen!)
This vertical tasting also defied convention in another way. Normally, wines are arranged chronologically or categorized by vintage characteristics. Instead, Château Rauzan-Ségla structured the tasting around three themes:
TEMPS
2001, 2010, 2011, 2016, 2019
SAVOIR-FAIRE
1998, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2017, 2020
CRÉATION
1996, 2002, 2009, 2012, 2015, 2018, 2021
At first, I was puzzled by this unconventional arrangement. But it wasn’t until I reached the second theme, SAVOIR-FAIRE, that I had an epiphany—the estate was using these three mini verticals to illustrate the delicate interplay between time, craftsmanship, and innovation. Each theme, when tasted individually, showcased Rauzan-Ségla’s evolution over the years with remarkable clarity. Yet when taken together, they composed different movements of a grand symphony, weaving a rich and harmonious narrative of the estate’s 30-year journey.
This thoughtful design carried subtle nods to Chanel’s brand philosophy, seamlessly integrating artistry and aesthetic refinement. I must say, when it comes to art and elegance, the French certainly know what they’re doing.
As for the detailed tasting notes from this vertical, I won’t go on about them here—those interested can find my bilingual review on alexandrema.com. What I will say, though, is that there are plenty of vintages worth highlighting: the soaring grace of 1998, the brilliance of 2009, the phoenix-like rebirth of 2015, the sheer excellence of 2016, and the breathtaking “Three Musketeers” of 2018, 2019, and 2020. But let me stop myself before this turns into another long-winded discussion.
Next, I’ll share everything I know about Château Rauzan-Ségla, with nothing held back. I hope this article offers a fresh perspective to those who drink, sell, or collect this extraordinary wine.
21 Types of Soil, 150 Vineyard Plots
I’ve said it before—if Bordeaux ever embraced the idea of single-vineyard bottlings, the sheer number of names would be enough to crash a computer. Take Château Rauzan-Ségla, for example—it boasts 150 distinct vineyard plots, each with its own unique name. However, unlike Burgundy, where things often get more complicated than necessary, Bordeaux prefers a more streamlined approach. So, for simplicity’s sake, we can categorize these 21 soil types and 150 vineyard plots into three main groups:
1. Deep Gravel Soils (Sols Graves Profondes)
The legendary “”Terrasse 4″” is Bordeaux’s “”secret weapon””—an essential feature of Médoc’s greatest estates. This combination of gravel and clay offers both excellent drainage and just the right amount of water retention, allowing vines to thrive in both rainy and drought-prone vintages. Wines from these soils exhibit remarkable complexity and concentration, with a deep, lingering finish that leaves many other estates envious.
2. Fine Gravel Soils (Sols Graves Fines)
Found on the outskirts of the estate, these soils contribute more fruit-forward aromas and a rounder texture, making wines that are immediately charming in their youth. While they don’t impart the sheer power and structure of the first category, they are crucial to Château Rauzan-Ségla’s signature freshness and vibrancy—or, to put it another way, they are the unsung heroes behind Rauzan-Ségla’s hallmark “delicacy.”
3. Clay-Limestone Soils (Sols Argilo-Calcaires)
Traditionally regarded as Merlot-friendly soils, these plots have taken on newfound importance in the context of global warming. Grapes grown here tend to have a lower pH, which translates into higher acidity and firmer tannins. In particularly hot vintages, this soil type becomes a key factor in balancing the wine’s structure. Much of Château Rauzan-Ségla’s velvety texture and harmony can be traced back to these essential limestone-rich plots.
Château Rauzan-Ségla’s vineyard management is astonishingly precise. Each plot is not only cared for individually, but cultivation is further refined to suit its unique characteristics. This means devising 150 distinct management strategies for 150 vineyard plots—an extraordinary testament to its dedication. Even more impressively, it carries out precise intra-parcel selection to ensure that every bunch of grape reaches optimal phenolic maturity. This near-obsessive attention to detail forms the very foundation of Château Rauzan-Ségla’s exceptional quality.
A Poetic Philosophy of Winemaking
At Château Rauzan-Ségla, winemaking is akin to a meticulously orchestrated “decoding game”, guided by three key principles: observe, feel, and refine. First, the vineyard team carefully studies soil composition, vine growth, and even the ripening progress of each individual grape. Then, through a season-long dialogue with the land—by monitoring the weather, touching the soil, and tasting the fruit—they deepen their understanding of each plot’s true potential. Over years of patient refinement, every parcel’s character is fully expressed. Finally, through the art of blending, they bring these elements into perfect harmony, revealing their profound interpretation of Château Rauzan-Ségla’s identity. Isn’t this philosophy of winemaking, in itself, a form of artistry?
From Rauzan to Chanel
The Rauzan family, wealthy and influential, established Château Rauzan in 1661 after acquiring vineyards in Margaux. During the golden era of Louis XIV, the estate flourished, but as the family lineage progressed and properties were divided, the original estate evolved into multiple independent wineries—among them Château Rauzan-Ségla and Château Rauzan-Gassies.
When the 1855 Bordeaux Classification was introduced, Rauzan-Ségla was ranked sixth, just behind the four First Growths and Mouton, which was then still a Second Growth. It’s worth noting that this ranking was based purely on historical market prices, reflecting nearly a century of average wine values—in other words, it was all about demand and prestige. This alone attests to Rauzan-Ségla’s exceptional quality and popularity in its heyday.
However, from the early 20th century to the 1970s, the estate went through multiple ownership changes. From ambitious modernists to overseas investors, each contributed in some way to its evolution, but none succeeded in fully restoring its former glory. That changed in 1994, when Chanel acquired Château Rauzan-Ségla, ushering in a new era of revival and reinvention. With significant investments and modernization efforts, the estate has reemerged at the center of Bordeaux’s fine wine scene. More than just a return to greatness, this transformation stands as a tribute to Chanel’s enduring commitment to craftsmanship and artisanal excellence.
When Terroir Meets Fashion:
The Aesthetic Dialogue Between Château Rauzan-Ségla and Chanel
Since Château Rauzan-Ségla is backed by the formidable La Maison Chanel, one might wonder—does the wine bear any resemblance to the legendary fashion house? Surprisingly, after careful observation, I’ve discovered quite a few intriguing parallels.
1. Both Are Obsessive About Details
As we’ve discussed, Château Rauzan-Ségla is meticulous in its vineyard management and terroir research. Every step, from site selection and vine cultivation to vinification and aging, is executed with an almost obsessive pursuit of perfection. Chanel’s haute couture operates under the same principle—every stitch, fabric choice, and seam is scrutinized with the utmost precision. Whether in the world of fine wine or high fashion, excellence lies in the details.
2. Both Are Icons of “French Elegance”
Château Rauzan-Ségla has long been admired for its graceful yet texturally refined style. Its body is as soft and seamless as fresh cream, its tannins so fine they seem to dissolve on the palate—an embodiment of the philosophy “effortless yet sophisticated, understated yet profound.” This elegance isn’t about superficial charm but rather the result of relentless refinement and an unwavering pursuit of balance. Chanel, too, champions this aesthetic. With its clean lines and timeless silhouettes, the brand’s designs transcend trends, instead emphasizing the cultural depth behind each piece and the way it complements the wearer. Whether it’s the eternally chic “”little black dress”” or the impeccably tailored “”tweed jacket, “” Chanel doesn’t rely on excess ornamentation. Instead, it achieves a quiet yet unmistakable beauty through perfect proportions, exquisite fabrics, and impeccable craftsmanship. Across their respective domains, both Château Rauzan-Ségla and Chanel have elevated French elegance to an art form.
3. Both Are Devoted to Long-Term Vision
General Manager Nicolas once told me that since joining Château Rauzan-Ségla in 2014, his primary focus has been on understanding the vineyards. The estate has never chased quick success but has instead prioritized gradual, long-term refinement. (Though, I must admit, based on my tastings, Rauzan-Ségla’s wines have become noticeably fresher and more vibrant since 2015 😄) Similarly, Chanel has long been celebrated for its independent, forward-thinking approach in the fashion industry. Even in an era of relentless corporate takeovers, the brand has remained family-controlled, never compromising its identity for short-term gains. This unwavering commitment to long-term excellence is precisely what defines the lasting success of both Château Rauzan-Ségla and Chanel.
If there’s one direct and tangible link between Château Rauzan-Ségla and Chanel, it would undoubtedly be the 2009 vintage label, personally designed by Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s then-creative director. Created to celebrate the château’s 350th anniversary, Lagerfeld’s illustration presents a classic French château, rendered in his signature modern hand-drawn style. The soft backgrounds, delicate strokes, and bold contrasts capture both the passion and beauty of the 2009 vintage, while simultaneously reflecting the shared artistic and aesthetic sensibilities of Chanel and Château Rauzan-Ségla.
Without realizing it, I’ve already written a few thousand words—but by now, I think you can see why I’m so “demanding” when it comes to Château Rauzan-Ségla. I’ve always believed that wine is more than just a blend of technique and terroir—it is, in itself, an artistic expression. I’m constantly searching for ways to translate my tasting experiences into something more vivid and tangible, and in its seamless fusion of craftsmanship and artistry, Château Rauzan-Ségla—like Chanel—has already done this effortlessly. There’s much to learn from this.
In the end, I hope my reflections have made Château Rauzan-Ségla’s magic feel more approachable and intuitive. More importantly, I hope more friends will step into the world of fine wine, to discover the profound artistry and spirit that lie within every bottle.
