AMA Vertical Tasting
Château Montlabert
When it comes to crafting fine wine, there are truly no shortcuts. Consider this: it takes at least two to three years to observe the terroir, seven to eight years to optimize the vineyards, and with the renovation of the cellars and winemaking equipment, it’s a process that easily spans a decade or more. Therefore, whenever friends ask me for advice on investing in a winery, my response is usually two words: “Don’t buy!”
However, today, I want to introduce you to a textbook example of a “nurtured development” case: Château Montlabert.
In my view, the most crucial elements in winery investment are not capital and technology, but patience and aesthetics. Especially aesthetics—sometimes, even if the terroir isn’t inherently exceptional, a refined aesthetic can still produce outstanding wines.
The influence of the Castel family in the wine world is undeniable. Yet, in the first decade after acquiring Château Montlabert (they purchased the estate in 2008), they did not rush for quick success. Instead, they undertook a task that most people wouldn’t comprehend: “excavating the soil.” Technical Director Ludovic Hérault told me, “Before deciding how to make the wine, he needed to listen to and understand the character of the local terroir. Until then, any excessive actions could be futile.”
I wholeheartedly agree with this approach. Based on my personal tasting experience, Château Montlabert previously lacked distinctive qualities. Except for exceptional vintages like 2016, it was almost forgettable. But one day, while tasting the bottled 2019 vintage (I missed the 2019 en primeur tasting due to COVID), I was amazed to discover:
The previously strong roasted aromas had been replaced by clear floral and fruity fragrances;
The robust body structure was gone, leaving a soft, sweet texture on the palate;
The previously hidden terroir characteristics gradually emerged, not only retaining the gentle entry of the sandy soil but also adding the tight, lingering finish typical of clay soil.
Overnight, Château Montlabert seemed to shed its floral cotton jacket and don a tailored coat, transforming into a dashing gentleman. What caused this stunning transformation? I found the answers in my conversations with Ludovic and Cédric.
The soil of Château Montlabert is primarily sandy, with clay hidden 30cm below the surface. Before the grape roots reach the clay, heavy rain could swell the grapes into bloated berries, while drought could stunt their growth, leading to suboptimal polyphenol levels and concentration.
To compensate for these shortcomings, the estate had long employed “Fermentation Intégrale” (whole barrel fermentation) and used many new oak barrels. Although these techniques enhanced the wine’s structure, they also masked the naturally smooth body and fresh sweetness of the sandy-clay terroir.
By around 2019, the roots of Château Montlabert’s vines finally made their first intimate contact with the clay layer. Coupled with the estate’s excellent vineyard management, particularly the timing of leaf thinning, the quality of the grapes underwent a significant transformation. According to Ludovic and Cédric, from 2019 onwards, Château Montlabert almost no longer fears drought. Even in extreme dry and hot vintages like 2022, there were no cases of grape shriveling, which is quite remarkable for vineyards with predominantly sandy soil.
Additionally, 2019 marked the first vintage produced in Château Montlabert’s brand-new cellar, making it a milestone in the estate’s history.
Firstly, the entire winemaking process employs “natural gravity” (using forklifts and elevators), which not only reduces mechanical force but also avoids oxidation issues caused by grape damage during transport.
Secondly, the design of the fermentation tanks is highly sophisticated. Sixteen cement and stainless steel tanks are divided into four groups, each forming a rose shape with two conical and two inverted conical tanks in each group. The estate decides on the maceration method based on the characteristics of the grapes each year to optimize the precision of tannin and polyphenol extraction. (Generally, conical tanks use “Pigeage” maceration, while inverted conical tanks use “Délestage” maceration).
Lastly, the proportion of new oak fermentation barrels was reduced to 50%. As the roasted aromas became more subdued, the expression of floral and fruity fragrances was immediately elevated to a higher level.
Moreover, the new winery has also left a profound impression on me with its energy-saving and emission-reduction features.
Firstly, the walls inside the fermentation room are lined with a streamlined layer of cork, which serves to insulate against heat.
Secondly, deep holes were drilled into the walls of the underground cellar, allowing cool air from the deeper soil layers to flow into the cellar, thereby reducing the reliance on temperature control equipment.
Lastly, the most ingenious design is a slender tower-like structure in the center of the winery, topped with a glass dome with openings on all sides. As the internal temperature rises, the hot air ascends through the tower structure to the glass dome, then, following the principles of thermodynamics, it is expelled outside through the openings.
This series of measures has resulted in a 50% reduction in Château Montlabert’s electricity consumption. Such design features are quite rare in traditional winery architecture.
The total area spans an impressive 21 hectares. Around ten hectares of sandy clay vineyards surrounding the estate are dedicated to producing the Grand Cru Classé wines, while another section of clay vineyards in the village of Saint-Christophe-des-Bardes in Saint-Émilion is primarily used for the second wine, La Croix de Montlabert. In my opinion, Château Montlabert and La Croix de Montlabert are less like traditional first and second labels and more like distinct expressions of two types of soil.
In 2022, Château Montlabert deservedly ascended to the rank of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé.
Looking at the “development history” of Château Montlabert over the past decade, it seems that every detail embodies the word “professionalism.” When it achieved the status of Grand Cru Classé, the land value alone tripled. Such a return on investment might not match the tech industry or China’s former real estate boom, but it certainly warrants serious consideration for anyone interested in investing in a winery.
At the end of this article, I would like to share some information about the Castel family’s enterprises. In addition to the more than 20 wineries you’re already familiar with (including a 50% stake in Château Beychevelle and Château Beaumont) and their wine merchant business, the Castel family also owns the historic French wine retail chain Nicolas, the online retail platform Vinatis (acquired in 2022), and Africa’s largest brewery group BGI. They represent a colossal entity encompassing production, logistics, distribution, and both online and offline retail.
In my view, Château Montlabert is undoubtedly the brightest star in the Castel family’s vast empire. More importantly, its story has only just begun.